So it was all about black liner, and contour. It’s mainly just to add some toughness, and a little bit of punk, while packing some green glitter on there with a green lip, pressed in with a little bit more eyeshadow.”For the hair, Cowan enlisted hairstylist Laurent Philippon to create messy buns, and ponytails topped with 1950s style birdcage veils that complemented the punk-y vibe. Front row attendees, including long-time Cowan fans and friends, who know to expect nothing short of extravagance from the shows came dressed decked out for the occasion. And when you hire her that’s what you get.”Photos courtesy of MAC Cosmetics/ Frank Rocco On the runway, green and bronze were the key colors of note. At Christian Cowan last night, the vibe was unmistakably over the top — and that’s not even including the new collection itself. I would say it’s more like liner of the season, we saw it at Chromat and Rag & Bone this season. To create it, we used the Dazzleshadow Extreme, which we packed on to the lid, and then we did a really big graphic, chunky liner, that’s more symmetrical. But the party didn’t end there.Japanese nail artist Yukie Natori had her own set of Swarovski crystals soaked nails on display in four primary designs: black nails with crystals, gold nails with Swarovski gold jewelry and nails with ocelot and “pink car print.” Some of these were then topped with custom-made nail stickers attached to the tips that Natori created on Photoshop, she told PAPER.Ultimately though, it was Ffrench who made the biggest beauty statement for the night.”The thing about Ismaya that’s great is that she’s really a wild card,” says Stapleton. “Christian loves glitter and loves a big look. I would say it was very 90s supermodel with that sort of crazy, wild, wolf-y eyebrow and then the glitter down the centre of the lips. “She thinks outside of the box, she takes chances and she’s not afraid for something to go rogue and be like, ‘oh wait a minute, that’s good, you know?’ So I think doing the makeup with her was always a dream. We just added glitter to the cheekbones, because we should, because why the hell not?”For those sporting green, however, Stapleton said, the makeup was formulated last minute. “Green is a big color in the collection, so we wanted something with green. As with everything Cowan, the beauty looks of the evening were also at their flashiest.Celebrity makeup artist Isamaya Ffrench was behind what morphed into some truly theatrical makeup: heavy glitter, embellishments, ultra thick brows and dark shadows all over rounded out the golden looks.”The bronze look was very supermodel-y,” John Stapleton, the Senior National Artist at MAC, explained backstage. Models emerged in glamorous suits, and cocktail dresses topped with obscene amounts of sequins, bows and ruffles. It’s very straight, it’s almost like an x-acto blade.
And they do make logo t-shirts. Eckhaus Latta designers Mike Eckhaus and Zoe Latta held their Fall 2020 show, their 17th, in the former Abercrombie & Fitch store in the South Street seaport. The trousers and blazers were just so beautiful. The shop, which closed last year alongside 39 other A&F locations, is a ruined temple of a certain kind of now-unfashionable Americana: plaid rugs, burnished mahogany, the echoes of Bruce Weber campaigns featuring white, muscled models running on the beach. As with every season, their show notes featured a poem — this season’s included lines about “ANCIENT IDEAS OF BEING IN THE OCEAN ON A RINSE CYCLE,” “A KNEE THAT CRACKS,” “PLAGIARIZED SPIRITUALITY,” and “DANDRUFF.” At the afterparty, I saw someone casually pull out a copy of Infinite Jest. I want to go corporate now, and not just for the health insurance. Related | Puppets and Puppets Is Serious, But Not Too SeriousMaybe, like most people on deadline during fashion week, I’m reading into things too much, but the choice of setting is really very clever. As Latta told Vogue, the designers were interested in starting “a conversation about reducing waste and extending the life cycle of fashion.””We focused heavily on the clothing for this collection and saw an opportunity to reuse existing footwear in place of footwear that is produced largely for the purpose of a 15-minute runway show,” she added.That focus was clear. The clothes were presented to gasps (audible over a pounding soundtrack). As Natasha Stagg wrote in her essay “Forevercrombie,” recently republished in her book Sleeveless, as Abercrombie & Fitch fell out of fashion wearing it became cool again, “as punk as wearing Sharpie-written anti-Abercrombie shirts was in the 2000s.”I love the A&F thing; Eckhaus Latta, which used to collaborate with UGG on shoes, has a great deal of affection for a 2000s hot girl uniform. “How do we expand in a way that doesn’t feel regurgitative of ideas that have been popular?” The DNA is strong. After years of making a few menswear pieces per collection, the designers showed a full mens’ collection — as they told GQ, they wanted to be more inclusive by targeting male customers who want to buy their clothing, but can’t physically fit into it. “We’re not a new brand anymore,” Eckhaus told GQ. The entire collection stayed true to the brand’s DNA, despite the clear sense of evolution. A friend and I took some pictures, but no one else blinked an eye.Photography (backstage): Jack Maffucci Photography (runway): Mitchell Sams courtesy of Eckhaus Latta There were A-line miniskirts paired with crisp, broad-shouldered cropped jackets and double-layered cardigans, touchable corduroy pants, a stunning nylon trench. Some denizen of Dimes Square has surely paired vintage Abercrombie & Fitch tees with an Eckhaus Latta knit, like, ironically. And for footwear, they partnered with The RealReal, selecting polished vintage styles from the likes of Prada and Bruno Magli that are now available to purchase. But there were two big non-nostalgic stories that emerged from the fall show. The colors were brighter than usual — descriptions in the show notes include “acid yellow,” “tomato,” “limon,” and “scuba” — and the designers experimented with glittering tinsel and jeans and outerwear rendered in a gleaming pink “gloss” fabric. A&F and other mall brands are struggling, and labels like Eckhaus Latta, which make a point of rejecting their values, are rising out of the ashes of an increasingly demolished retail landscape. It was still identifiably Eckhaus Latta, including brand signatures like painted jeans and color-blocked asymmetrical knits, but also went to a new place. The label is known for cleverly undone art clothes, for inclusive casting, for molding a downtown fashion community that values a curated kind of distinctiveness over bland conformity (everybody downtown or in an equivalent Instagram scene may dress the same, but they’re proud of dressing differently from the Average). Someone says this every season, but this was their most polished collection ever.
I’ve been testing this for a long time (like in Miami 😛) and I know…”
Makeup artist and Global Artistry Director at Haus Laboratories, Sarah Tanno further attests to the products’ durability and says they’ve been tested on Gaga herself as she performed several shows at her ongoing Vegas residency.”As the Global Artistry Director for Haus Laboratories, I’m always doing product testing,” said Tanno. The 12 tones have been tested on all skin tones and undertones to make sure that we have an inclusive range of colors.”Le Monster Matte Lip Crayon retails for $18 and will be available to shop starting February on hauslabs.com and amazon.com.Photos courtesy of Haus Laboratories More than anything, we want you to love our products and trust we’ve done our homework. “It’s easy to apply and stays on, just like my Monster makeup stays on during concerts. Gaga’s favorite? You want to be able to trust your products and this is the most reliable lipstick. “I’ve been testing this for a long time (like in Miami) and I know you’re going to love this bold lip color!!!”
Lady Gaga on Instagram: “We created this product (and 11 MORE SHADES) for my biggest fans. Le Monster Lip Crayons, a range of matte formula lipsticks feature 12 new shades and have been formulated to work on a range of skin tones providing “opaque, one swipe coverage.” The new product further claims to go from creamy application to a budge-proof matte finish.”We created Le Monster Matte Lip Crayon for the lipstick lover who can’t get enough,” said Lady Gaga. The Miami Tango — a bright red orange. Related | Sarah Tanno on Creating a Beauty Brand From Scratch With Lady Gaga”We created this product (and 11 more shades) for my biggest fans,” Gaga wrote on Instagram. “First it has to survive everyday life — of course you will need a bit of a touch up like any formula — but the ultimate test on product performance is if it can last during one of Gaga’s shows, and It has exceeded all our expectations. It’s reliable, irresistible, and sexy.” The long-lasting lipsticks come in a range of colors from cherry red and neon pink to nude mauve and plum berry. After weeks of teasing, Lady Gaga has revealed the latest Haus Labs launch.
This is the absolute best for creating DSLs — perfect for your next hookup.Bobbi Brown Extra Lip Tint, $36Bobbi Brown is such a slept on brand! The lip balm is definitely my favorite of the line, and comes in an array of tints. a popsicle. You cannot use too much of this, and I’ll often just end up smearing it over the entire lower half of my face if I have some beard burn from whoever I was kissing the night before. The cruelest part of winter is how drying it can be — ok, seasonal depression is pretty bad too — and oils become essential to my skincare routine during the coldest months of the year. No frills, no nonsense, no complaints. With Valentine’s Day looming, we’re all hoping for a big fat smooch from a very special someone, or at least a few very enthusiastic nobodies. Aquaphor does have a lip therapy version, but I prefer the original — I’m also pretty sure they’re the same thing. as a treat!Glossier Balm Dotcom, $12Glossier may have earned a reputation as beauty products for people who are already pretty, but they put themselves on the map with this cult favorite product. I love slathering this all over my mouth for a post-makeout look, and it’s a great way to start your makeup routine if you’re planning to wear a drying matte lipstick.Buxom Power-full Plump Lip Balm, $18This brand is known for their various lip-plumping products, but the balm is the most subtle, yet effective. I keep a tube of this by my bed and it’s the first thing I put on my face after I brush my teeth in the morning and the last thing before I go to sleep at night. My grandma has approximately 20 travel-sized tubes of these in her bathroom at all times, and I always grab a few whenever I visit — thanks grandma!Welcome to You’ve Been Served, Rose Dommu’s alternately irreverent and incisive look at beauty, ranging from the deeply personal to pop cultural — essays, product guides, interviews with artists/influencers/specialists and deep dives into the beauty industry’s impact on internet culture.Photo courtesy of Glossier Anyone who knows me knows that I have at least two kinds of lip balm on me at all times. Not only does Fenty Beauty’s balm have a great formula — gooey, but a bit more liquidy than Glossier — it has my favorite applicator on the market, a wand that lets you apply balm without having to use your fingers. This is definitely on the pricier side when it comes to lip balm, but a little goes a long way and the product makes your lips feel cushiony for hours.Milk Makeup KUSH Lip Balm, $16As an avid cannabis connoisseur, I was very intrigued when Milk started rolling out their line of KUSH products. My favorites are Birthday, which has a subtle shimmer and tastes exactly like cake, and refreshing Mint.Fenty Beauty Pro Kiss’r Luscious Lip Balm, $18If you’re gonna keep running your mouth about Rihanna endlessly delaying her next album, you might as well do it with hydrated lips. And it’s so multi-purpose! Teenage girls and their annoyed parents line up outside the Glossier stores in New York and Los Angeles all year long just so they can ascend the millennial pink steps and nab a tube of their very own. The cannabis sativa seed oil calms chapped lips while the shea and moringa butter provide a 1-2 punch of hydration. The balm is goopy but spreadable, an ideal consistency for lip balm, and comes in an array of flavors and finishes, including a few with a light int. This product gives your lips a super glossy look that’s more glasslike than wet, and it comes in an array of shades — my current favorite is Berry, a purple that will leave you looking like you were just sucking… I’m partial to Bare Nude — nude isn’t an option you see a lot in tinted lip balms, which tend to lean more pink or red than beige. The shade Big O, a sheer pink, is perfect if you’re looking for a “my lips but better” effect on a no-makeup day. You can have a little lip luxury… However, the sheer green OG is my favorite. It also comes with a little gold spoon you can use to apply the product — the height of sophistication!Dior Lip Glow Oil, $34I know this is supposed to be a list of balms, but I’m a recent lip oil convert thanks to Dior. The balm has a tingly effect that does visibly plump your lips — not as much as say, lip fillers, but it is noticeable. But the mushiest holiday of the year also falls during one of the coldest months of the year, and you can’t exactly pucker up for a makeout session with dry, chapped zombie lips.Related | My Year With Big LipsAs you may have read, lips are kind of my thing, and since I’ve invested time and money into making sure they’re as plump as possible, I’m also extremely anal about keeping them hydrated. Aquaphor really is just that girl. Of all the tinted balms I’ve tried, this one is my go-to because the color is sheer enough that if you’re messy with your application, it’s not super noticeable. The smell is subtle but divine, and this is a balm that sinks into your lips rather than sitting on top of them. Get your mind of the gutter, sickos!Aquaphor Healing Ointment, $4.59When it comes to beauty and skincare, I’ll always go for something simple and effective, period. Pro-tip: if you want to try out a range of Milk’s KUSH products, there’s a set that includes a mini lip balm that’s the perfect size for a teeny tiny purse.Tatcha The Kissu Lip Mask, $28Not technically a balm, but as someone who uses Tatcha’s Water Cream daily, I was so excited to learn they also had a lip mask, one that has the word kiss in the name, hello! I’ve tried every just about every lip balm on the market in my constant quest for a plush pout, and I’m here to guide you through Valentine’s Day and beyond, because even if you don’t have someone to kiss, you can show yourself some love by indulging in a new, beauty expert-approved product. The mask has a wonderfully syrupy consistency that’s great as an overnight mask or a heavier balm on those super cold, super dry winter days. They make some of my favorite skincare products, and the extra lip tint is another great option if you’re looking for moisture with a hint of color. You can use this on a new tattoo, a burn, or some inner-thigh chafing (better known to us thicc girls as chub-rub).